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Smeri > La Conjura de Los Necios; El Gigante, kanjon Candamena, pogorje Sierra Tarahumara, Mehika

Datum: 01.05.2002
Slika 2 od 7
Skica smeri La Conjura de Los Necios.

V globokem in težko dostopnem kanjonu v pogorju Sierra Tarahumara se nahaja tisoč metrov visoka navpična in previsna stena El Gigante. Prva smer v tej izredno zahtevni steni je bila preplezana šele leta 1999: Buil, Garcia; Simuchi (6b+, A4+, 950m, 14 dni). Naslednje leto je ista naveza dodala še drugo smer: Yavira Batu, podobnih težavnosti. Lani so tam plezali Glowatz, Albert in Co. in splezali še tretjo, prostoplezalno smer (IX+, 1000m, 8 plezalnih dni). Kljub temu, da je El Gigante najvišja stena Mehike, primerljiva s kalifornijskim El Capitanom, je nepoznana tudi med alpinističnimi poznavalci. Najina načrtovana prvenstvena smer v El Gigantu je padla v vodo. Zato sva se odločila, da bova poskusila ponoviti smer La Conjura de Los Necios, VI 5.13a (IX+), 1000m, ki so jo preplezali Glowacz, Albert, Heuber in Fengler. Spodnji raztežaji so izgledali kar O.K., dokaj očiščeni, tako da se je dalo vsaj malce plezati. Prvi dan sva za poskušino splezala prve štiri raztezaje in si fiksirala vrvi. Plezanje je takoj po prvem raztežaju postalo zelo resno. Skala je bila sicer deloma očiščena, pa se vseeno krušljiva, polna zemlje in rastlin. Šlo je za resno plezanje v strmih ploščah, z varovanjem na svedrovce, vendar pa z zares krepkimi runouti (večinoma 7-10 metrov). Večina smeri je v območju VII. in VIII. stopnje (5.11- do 5.11+), najtežji pa je četrti raztezaj, ki so ga Nemci ocenili s 5.13- (IX+). Tudi v najtežjem raztežaju je med svedrovci po več kot 7 metrov, tako da padci ravno niso zaželeni in tako ga je Andrej raje splezal kar na pogled! Čeprav je ocena najtežjega raztežaja smeri previsoka (bolj verjetno nekje okoli 5.12.c (IX-)) gre za izredno, izredno resno in zahtevno smer. Glede na vse to, njeno dolžino in moj uspešen prosti vzpon na pogled je to vsekakor daleč najtežja in najzahtevnejša smer, ki sem jo (sva jo) preplezala (pa še najgrša) !!

vir skice: arhiv A.G.

« nazaj « [Nazaj na smer] » naprej »

 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018