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Smeri > Dalai Lama; Putala Shan (5428m), dolina Shuangqiao Gou, Sečuan, Kitajska

Datum: 01.10.2003
Slika 2 od 6
Skica prvenstvene smeri Dalai Lama.

Spet je sledil dolg, strm in naporen dostop. Bivakirala sva pod steno in naslednji dan še v temi vstopila v osrednji del stene. Ponovno sva želela plezati čim lažja in čim hitreje. Tak hiter stil se nama je ponovno obrestoval. Iz doline sva si nagledala najbolj logičen prehod čez steno, sploh glede na to, da gora do tedaj še ni imela pristopa na vrh. Spodnji del smeri je bil objektivno zelo nevaren, saj je kamenje žvižgalo od vsepovsod. Srednji del se je postavil pokonci in sledilo je 400 metrov strmega plezanja. V sredini smeri se je Andreju izpulil kamen. Pri čudnem obratu v zraku je z rebri zadel na izbočen raz, kamen pa je priletel na mojo ramo. Še v šoku je preplezal naslednji raztežaj in sklenil, da kljub bolečinam nadaljujeva proti vrhu. Vreme je se je ves dan spreminjalo (megle, veter, sonce, črni oblaki,…). Od markantnega stolpa naprej (17R), kjer se je pričel pojavljati sneg, sva mislila, da bova takoj na vrhu. A je nagledana linija iz doline krepko varala. Severni vrh gore Putala Shan sva dosegla 1.10.2003, pol ure pred temo, po 11. urah plezanja brez večjih počitkov. Smer sva preplezala le z uporabo frendov in jebic. Raje kot da naju noč ujame na kakšni izpostavljeni snežni polici sva se odločila za mrzel bivak na vrhu. Mrzlo noč sva tako preživela na neudobni poševni plati, viseča v frendih. Naslednje jutro sva v megli pričela s spustom v dolino, po zamrznjenih in z ivjem obloženih vrveh. V steni sva v območju najine smeri pustila opremljen abzajl. Popoldne sva dosegla vznožje, vmes pa doživela spet kanonjado. Pod steno sva ponovno bivakirala in naslednji dan sestopila v dolino.

vir skice: arhiv A.G.

« nazaj « [Nazaj na smer] » naprej »

 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018