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Smeri > Johanova, Planja

Datum: 01.08.2017
Slika 1 od 4

Johanova smer vstopi z Rdeče grape naravnost navzgor po poči oz. plitvemu kotu, tam kjer Grošljeva smer vstopi levo po gredini. Že prvi raztežaj te pošteno ogreje in nakaže značaj smeri: lepo, strmo in zahtevno plezanje, po večinoma dobri skali, vendar z mestoma slabimi možnostmi za varovanje. Proti koncu drugega raztežaja je nekaj kočljivo naloženega pečevja, v četrtem je dokaj zahteven in ne povsem očiten prehod preko plati. Sedmi raztežaj je skupen s smerjo Obraz, v osmem pa iz velike votline zavijemo nekoliko neočitno in s pomankljivim varovanjem levo proti razčlembi, ki ji sledimo do roba stene. Ključ smeri, je predzadnji raztežaj s slabim varovanjem v ne povsem kompaktni kamnini, tik nad slabim varovališčem. Prva plezalca sta pustila v smeri tri kline, ponavljavcem priporočata še nekaj klinov in kaka dva kompleta metuljev (1xBD#3). Najlažji sestop je s spustom po vrvi – prvo sidrišče za spust je na polici 20 m pod zaključkom stene, nekje v liniji smeri Obraz; spustimo se proti desni do zgornjega sidrišča smeri Julius. Po štirih spustih po tej smeri odplezamo navzdol proti Rdeči grapi in vstopu (II).

Andrej & Tanja Grmovšek

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just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018