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 Zadnja odprava

#2 Balkan tour 2014

Več novic iz odprave... 
 
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Celotna galerija
2017

 
 Zadnja smer

Podrobneje
Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


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Predodpravarski trening

Čez mesec dni bova že na poti na odpravo v Kanado in priprave so v polnem teku. Podaljšan praznični vikend sva trenirala na Soči. Veslanje seveda.

No en dan sva si vzela tudi za plezanje in spoznavanje ene bolj odmaknjenih, pa tudi bolj monolitnih sten Julijcev - SZ stene Planje. Plezanje v smeri Obraz se je izkazalo za prav resno!

 

Ja, glede na to, da naju na kanadski odpravi čaka 400km veslanja po deroči reki in da v veslanju ravno nisva najbolj domača, predstavlja veslaški del odprave zagotovo večjo avanturo kot plezalni. Zato sva tokrat dala veslaškemu treningu vsekakor prednost. V treh dneh sva se preizkusila na številnih idiličnih soških brzicah in zares uživala. Kot začetnika hkrati tudi hitro napredujeva in ta občutek je zares fajn!

No tudi brez plezanja ni šlo. Že večkrat sva opazovala monolitno SZ steno Planje in končno je prišel dan, ko sva jo potipala od blizu. Izbrala sva Frančkovo smer Obraz, ki v zgornji polovici poteka po najbolj monolitnem delu stene. Plezarija je bila bolj resna kot sva predvidevala, skala pa slabša od visoko zastavljenih pričakovanj (no za Julice še vedno dobra). Tako nama je smer vzela cel dan in postregla z več težkimi raztežaji, dolg sestop pa se je že zavlekel v noč . Najtežji, zadnji raztežaj prek porušenega previsa, kjer ob prostem vzponu na pogled ob moji dolžini rok ni bilo moč vpeti odrešilnega klina, je postregel s krušljivim in slabo varovanim obveznim detajlom, ki je terjal popolno zbranost in odločnost! Uf! Če pobrskam po spominu - ena bolj resnih težkih smeri, ki sem jih plezal v naših hribih!

Skico smeri najdete na odlični Petrovi strani Primorske stene!

 
 

Povezava http://www.primorskestene.com/?mod=catalog&action=viewRout&id=424&action_id=56&lang=sl


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2024