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When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
 

Donnafugata is an emblematic route on enormous Dolomites tower Torre Trieste in Civetta massif. It was first ascended in 2004 by Dolomites veteran Christoph Hainz and Swiss Roger Schali. The first and the only free ascent of the route was done by Mauro Bubu Bole - after several days of study at the end of summer 2007.

About Donnafugata, by Andrej Grmovsek: »To be honest Donnafugata wasn't really my goal. I wasn’t motivated to climb a hard route in the Dolomites, especially at the start of the season. I didn' want to study pitches and moves only to have to return for a free ascent, to fight the psychological stress of a free ascent.

But in the end the enthusiasm and determination of my young climbing partner Luka Krajnc won me over. We went to the Torre Trieste last Saturday. Since Mauro Bubu Bole and also Erik Svab (who attempted the route last year) told us that the hardest pitch is very technical, we went there more to attempt the route then to climb it. We climbed on-sight to the key 15th pitch. But than I spent more than 2 hours figuring out all the moves on that really technical and long pitch. Then Luka spent even more time studying the pitch.
I was sure I wouldn't be able to link all the moves on my second try, but I tried nevertheless and managed to send it! I was super happy, but now we were confronted with another problem. It was already 5.30 p.m. and 9 more pitches separated us from the top. The crux pitch was too hard for Luka that day and I then continued leading as fast as possible. But I fell on the 17th pitch (7b) and climbed it free with my last energy on my third attempt. It was 9 p.m. There was another 7a/a+ pitch just before the top – a total slab without holds, which I managed on my second try, with headlamp. We reached the top at 11 p.m!

I feel the route is graded a bit "soft" as most of the modern multi-pitch free climbs, but the crux pitch is hard because of its technical nature. I'm really happy to have climbed it in the style I did. I believe there is a huge difference in "first try" (one day) free ascent and multi visit (i.e. more days) free ascents on multi-pitch free routes. This ascent means a lot to me personally, especially because of our fight to the end, the race against time and the totally unexpected free ascent in a single day! What is more, Luka managed to climb the route free just five days later!”

More about Donnafugata:

 http://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?id_tipologia=38⟨=eng&comefrom=search&id_itinerario=863&gruppo=&cima=&nome=

 

Photo gallery
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2017