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Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


Novice


Dolomiti. Tofana. Cine.

Ujela sva luknjo lepega vremena in se podala plezat v gore nad Cortino. Preplezala sva dve lepi smeri v Tofani di Rozes in bila mala ujetnika v času. Nato pa sva se podala pogledat še pod Tri Cine, brez katerih očitno tudi letos ne bo šlo.
 

Ker imamo v Mariboru zaradi Festivala Lent naporno nočno življenje sva se v Dolomite spravila šele v soboto zjutraj. Po gneči na cesti sva okoli poldneva le prispela pod stene. Ugotovila sva, da v Cortini prodajajo samo še poceni ameriško plezalno robo, a po evropskih cenah.

Ko plezava skupaj ima vsak en dan za svoje želje. Tako je bil prvi dan moj in odpravila sva se v Tofano di Rozes, v manj poznano smer Leviti- Via Gil Villeneuf (7, 500m). Odlična smer, ki je v novem nemškem vodničku ocenjena s sedmico, ki ji pravzaprav ne gre preveč oporekati. Naslednji dan sva nehote ostala pod Tofano, ker so bile zaradi kolesarske dirke zaprte vse ceste. Ta dan je bil brez glasnega brnenja motorjev, pravi blažen mir. Ker nama je zmanjkalo razpoložljivih skic, sva si na informativni tabli nagledala smer v četrtem stebru, za katero se je Andrej spomnil, da je nekje osme težavnostne stopnje. Smer La dansa del tapiro (7a+, 250m) sva uspešno našla in jo preplezala (Andrej prosto NP, Tanja kot druga 6cAo).

Sledil je premik proti Andrejevi plezalni želji, pod Tri Cine. Utaborila sva se med samimi Čehi in Slovaki na dobro znanem srednjem parkirišču. Precej zgodaj zjutraj sva v meglah hitela pod Veliko Cino. Andrej je poiskal vstop v smer Camillotto Pellesier - spominsko smer Mauro Minuzzo. Plezanje je bilo sprva zaradi megle precej drseče in v začetnih raztežajih težje kot so ocene, a je postajalo z višino vse boljše in zanimivejše. Preplezala sva prvih šest raztežajev, katere sem jaz pretehničarila. Sledili so zračni spusti pod steno in sklep, da se sem še vrneva.

 

Oglejte si fotogalerijo ...
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018