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Podrobneje
Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


Novice


Dolomiti. Velika Cina. Scotoni.

Po desetih dnevih slabšega vremena, se je lepo vreme le prikazalo in midva sva seveda spet hitela v Dolomite. Ponovno naju je gostila severna stena Velike Cine, kjer se je Andrej na svoj rojstni dan navijal v Minuzzotu. Nato sva se znašla še pod mogočno strmo steno Cime Scotoni, kjer sva vse do vrha preplezala smer Lacedelli.
 

Najino plezanje je v zadnjem letu zaradi Andrejeve redne službe omejeno zgolj na vikende, katere pa zato skušava toliko bolj izkoristiti. Posledica vse te dirke sem in tja, gor in dol je včasih prekomerna utrujenost, ki se kaže v obliki mišičnih krčev, ki so postali že kar neka nemogoča stalnica.

Ker sva se zadnjič šele tretji plezalni dan napotila v Andrejevo smer v Veliki Cini in se čudila, da sva utrujena, sva šla v Minuzzota tokrat kar prvi dan. A ni kaj dosti pomagalo. Po dvanajstih urah šihta sva bila oba sesuta do konca in nazaj pod steno. Andreju je Minuzzo malo pokazal zobe s svojo stalno previsnostjo v spodnjem delu in navijanjem rok do konca in naprej. Bo treba še priti! Zelo lep dan je popoldne pokazal svojo drugo stran, megle, močni nalivi in grmenje je bila popestritev večera.

Naslednji dan sva sporazumno preživela na travniku, ob prebiranju vodničkov in ob skrivanju pred popoldanskimi dežnimi kapljami. Luka in Lori sta ta dan plezala v previsih Zahodne Cine. Nato pa pod Cimo Scotoni. Steno sva poznala že od lanskega leta. Preplezala sva smer Lacedelli, 8-, 550m (Andrej NP, Tanja 6+ Ao). Težek raztežaj je že na začetku in v njem so kot grozdeki visele tri naveze pred nama. Andrej je nekako prefajtal ne prav lahek najtežji raztežaj, ki pa je bil kljub moji skriti želji zame prebrutalen. Kljub relativno zgodnji uri sva vstopila zadnja, v sredini pa sva po dolgem čakanju raje vse prehitela. Na drugi polici (po 400m)večina navez pobegne iz stene, midva pa sva nadaljevala po originalni smeri proti vrhu. Skica ni obetala nič posebnega, plezanje pa je presenetilo do konca. Mestoma precej krušljiva skala, iskanje linije in izpostavljeni prehodi so dodali turi pravi pečat. Če ne preplezaš še zgornjega 150m dodatka k smeri, na nek način res ne preplezaš te smeri. Še ena dobra smer. Domov sva nato vozila kot dva zombija...

 

Oglejte si fotogalerijo ...
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018