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Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


Novice


Še ena iz Frančkove zakladnice

Tako je to z letošnjim vremenom! Vstopila sva v tretjo steno, v Belega pajka, VIII, 250m, (Knez in co., 1990).
 

V soboto vreme sploh ni bilo tako slabo kot so obetali in po večerni napovedi je padla odločitev. Jutri greva pogledat v Ojstrico. V mraku naslednjega jutra sva s Tanjo  že rinila v breg na Klemenčo jamo. Pri koči pa je postalo jasno - stena Ojstrice je bila bolj črna kot bela, mokrota povsod. Pa sva si rekla:  »Morda pa se najde kaj suhega v Rjavičkem vrhu«. In sva prisopihala pod naslednjo steno, ki je bila v levem delu le vlažna z nekaj mokrimi mesti. Ko sva že pripravljala plezalno opremo sem se zagledal v lep steber v Škarjah – bil je takorekoč čisto suh. »Je tam kakšna uporabna smer?« In tako sva pol ure kasneje vstopila v tretjo steno, v Belega pajka, VIII, 250m, (Knez in co., 1990). Kot sva kasneje ugotavljala gre za eno najboljših (težjih) smeri nad Logarsko, odlična linija, lepa plezarija v dobri skali (razen prvega in zadnjega raztežaja), za Frančka presenetljivo dosti svedrovcev, pa vseeno resno. Smer spominja na plezanje v Marmoladi, še posebej najtežji raztežaj po luknjicah, ki si po mojem zasluži oceno VIII+. Med popoldansko ploho sva plezala v previsnem delu in se v sončku v dolino zadovoljno vrnila s prvo ponovitvijo. Prava škoda da celih 15 let nihče ne ponovi tako lepe smeri!

 

Skica + foto - klikni spodaj!

 
 

Povezava http://www.grmoclimb.net/?str=502&aid=13


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018