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 Zadnja odprava

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2017

 
 Zadnja smer

Podrobneje
Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


Novice


sončna jesen v selli

Še kar nisva nehala plezat. Zadnje dela proste dni v oktobru je bila neverjetno obetavna vremenska napoved in porodila se je ideja o obisku jesenskih Dolomitov nato pa še v Arco. Zaradi prelepega vremena nisva uspela priti do Arca in sva štiri dni preživela pod nebom brez oblačka v italijanski Selli. Preplezala sva tri smeri in se čudila trumam jadralnih padalcev, ki so veselo švigali mimo naju.
 

Saj sprva nisva mislila, da bova letos še kaj plezala v skali in celo v dolgih smereh. A vreme je tokrat zelo presenetilo, celo poletje ni bilo tako vroče kot je bilo te štiri dni v stenah Selle. Kaj lepšega si lahko želiš kot plezanje v kratkih rokavih s pogledom na že zelo zimsko zasneženo Marmolado in okolico.

Tri dni sva plezala v južni steni Piz Ciavazes (2836m), kjer sva prvi dan preplezala markanten desni raz, Abramov raz (VII-, 300m). Naslednji dan je Andrej želel iti pogledat v staro tehnično smer, »Via Italia« (8a, 200m) katero je Bubo lani uspel preplezati prosto. Smer, ki ima tako izpostavljeno linijo, da ti ni nič kaj jasno. Kar malo sem se odvadila takega lufta pod ta zadnjo in sem sprva kar debelo gledala, ko sem videla kakšni previsi in strehe me čakajo. Andrej si je smer malo nagruntal, za kdaj naslednjič, ker se je izkazala da je ta prava 8a. Jaz sem spet malo ponovila gvihtanje in prepenjanje iz klina v klin. Naslednji dan sta naju s svojim obiskom na tretjem ovinku razveselila Klara in Matic, ki sta nama popestrila naslednje večere. Po dnevu sončenja in ogledovanja okoliških sten sva počakala na sonce v prvem raztežaju in šla plezat Buhlovo varianto velikega Micheluzzija in nad gredino nadaljevala vse do vrha (VI+, 500m). Večina navez v tej steni namreč na polovici odkuri iz stene. Izstop na vrh je bil prava grozljivka. Glede na to, da sva pozabila čelne svetilke sva drvela proti abzajlu in ravno pravi čas uspela priti do avta. Dan je pač kratek in stena dolga. No s temi vzponi sva zaključila z Dolomiti, za letos. Že čez dva tedna namreč jaz že letim v zimski Kolorado, novim dogodivščinam naproti.

 

Oglejte si fotogalerijo ...
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018