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Success in hardest free route on Cima Grande

After my successful free ascent of Couzy memorial route (8b or 8a+, 550m) on Cima Oveste last year I decided to try Camilotto memorila route in Cima Grande.
 

Camilloto Pellesier memorial route was climbed in 1967 by Mauro and Minuzzo and was probably the peak of the dead-end street taken by diretissima aid climbers on Tre Cime walls. With 340 bolts and about 50 pitons it is in fact more bolted “via ferrata” than a climbing route and runs in direct line from bottom to the end of the overhanging left part of Cima Grande north wall. But in summer of 2003 this route got new dimensions with Mauro Bole’s first free ascent. He graded his free climbing with 8b and inspired some of the best alpine free climbers. My friend and climbing partner Marko Lukić did second free ascent (in 2003)  only few weeks after Bubo.

The weather in this summer was really poor and with only my weekends off I needed luck to find days with good conditions on the wall. The free repetition of this route has still quite alpine character, rock is loose and rotten, bolts are not in good shape anymore and sometimes you have to skip them while free climbing – it’s adventuress like most routes in Tree Cime. After two separate days of studying the route I taught I could redpoint it. But on my third visit the rock in the hardest pitch was completely wet. Water was dripping through thin cracks in overhangs and I didn’t succeed. On my fourth visit, on 6th of August, I lead the whole route without a fall. After twelve hours of climbing I stood happily on the summit of Cima Grande in the evening snowstorm with my wife Tanja who climbed and supported me in my project (she is the best wife on the planet!).

I think grades given by Bubo are too hard and my suggested grades for first six pitches are 7b+/c, 7c/c+, 8a/a+, 7c/c+, 7a, 7c+/8a. See also the topo - click below!

 

Written by Andrej Grmovšek, August 2005

 
 

External link http://www.grmoclimb.net/?str=502&aid=12


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018