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Gabarrou – Silvy- FREE!

In March 2007 Marko Lukić and Andrej Grmovšek climbed beautiful and also quite hard mix climb on north wall of Aiguilles Sans Nom (3982m), Mont Blanc Massif.
 

That’s Andrej’s short report.

At the beginning of sport mix climbing Marko and I both looked at it with lot of respect and also quite sceptically but after trying this kind of climbing 4 years ago, we find it very interesting and very useful for our body fitness. In last years Marko and I climbed many “hardest” sport mix climbs in Europe; Marko: Tsunami M12, Vertical limit M12, No limit M12+, Big bang M12, and me: La via e’bella M11, Tension M12+, Game over M13-. We found that hardest sport mix climbs are much overrated in terms of difficulty and on other hand that there is only very slow transfer of sport mix climb experiences into longer alpine routes. So we decided to try this on our own. We chose Gabbarou-Silvy route on NW face of  A. Sans Nome mostly by coincidence, but also because of high M grade (M9) in french reports abut this climb. 

Our first try in February was not successful, mostly because of health problems combined with no acclimatisation and only 7 hours of light for first vertical 300m (stomach problems + 9 hours drive after full week of stressful job + short night in Cham and late noon star of climb + altitude = bad, bad, bad - rappel!). Next time, in middle of March, we started from G. Montes in early morning, climbed route free, without problems in one and half days, but were caught by cold front with strong winds, snow and zero night visibility on descent for which we need adventures 15 hours. We found the rout superb, with hard dry tooling in perfect rock on first 300m, continued with 300m of ice field and another 300m of good mix climbing in upper third. We totally suggest the route to other climbers. It has perfect pitches, good rock, good possibilities for protection and relatively modest physical difficulties in terms of sport mix climbing and we think it will become real classic in few years (or probably decades), when wider climbing public will find out what and how is possible to climb with axes in the mountains.

Probably we made second free ascent of the route (after J. Mercier). We didn’t find any good topo for the route, so we draw our own and suggest  M grades by our (modest) opinion.

 

See more photos and topo on http://grmoclimb.net/?str=502&aid=19


 

You can also find this article on ALPINIST web page, under "NewsWire": http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-gab-silvy-lukic-grmovsek

 

 
 

External link http://www.grmoclimb.net/?str=502&aid=19


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2018