grmoclimb.net Living the Dream.

Zen

 Zadnja odprava

#2 Balkan tour 2014

Več novic iz odprave... 
 
 Zadnje v galeriji

Celotna galerija
2017

 
 Zadnja smer

Podrobneje
Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


Novica iz odprave > Patagonia 2005

Tanja, Rok in Aljaž še na Aig. Exupery

Tanja je osvojila še svoj tretji patagonski vrh. Skupaj z Rokom Zalokarjem in Alajžem Tratnikom so stali na vrhu Ag. Saint Exupery, na katerega so prepelzali po Buscainijevi smeri.
 

V sredo smo se spravili iz baze in sicer se nama je z Rokom pridružil še Aljaž. Šli smo v Ag. Exupery in na poti do bivaka skoraj odkrili toplo vodo.  Dan je bil brez oblačka. V četrtek zjutraj je ob štirih zvonila ura, katero smo poknili dol, prižgali gorilnik, pristavili vodo in suvereno zaspali nazaj. Po ene pol ure vretja vode smo se le zganili. Zbudili smo se v oblačno in vetrovno jutro. Nič kaj nismo debatirali ali gremo ali ne, samo šli smo. Ob osmih smo bili čez ledenik in na vstopu v Buscainijevo smer(6a, 6c/A1, 850m). Plezanje v tri je bilo prav fajn. Moja rama je delala in smo šibali. Vmes kar nekaj lažjih cugov štajerca. Super lepe poči v sredini, strme. Proti vrhu je začelo ful pihati iz druge strani, neverjetno sem si želela na ta vrh in ob šestih popoldne smo ga dosegli! Moj in Rokov treji patagonski vrh, za Aljaža pa drugi. NORO!!!


Pogled na popolnoma zabasan Cerro Torre in okoliške špice. Mater je lepo ko je fajn. Na poti dol je malo snežilo, malo pihalo, ves dan so bili naokoli črni oblaki, ampak mi smo vztrajali in zlezli do vrha! S temo smo nato z mojstrom abzajla Aljažem prispeli na ledenik. Srečni in utrujeni. Mesec dni dela in le pet dni počitka v tem se le pozna na naših telesih. Nato smo ponoči skoraj bivakirali 100m nad bivakom, ki ga je bilo precej zahtevno najti. Juhica, spalke in nato smo odmrli. Zbudili smo se v dan brez oblačka.



Klemen in Rok Šisernik-Štrankl sta v petek preplezala raz Guillamenta in Mermoza, ter se spustila navzdol čez "red pilar". Še novi vrhovi za Slovence letos! Neverjetno!





Vreme v tem času ni bilo več najboljše. Silvo je s Thomasom (Huberjem) in Andyem v slabem vremenu moral obrniti v načrtovani prvensteni smeri v Stanhardu.


Tako je Tanji uspelo stati še na njenem tretjem patagonskem vrhu in še dopolniti bero že tako odličnih vzponov. Pravi, da si mora sedaj privoščiti še malo počitka in zabave. Domov se vrača v nedeljo 27.februarja.

 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


Show all news
Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2024